I first heard about this ride from a page in my Lonely Planet guide. The details were sparse, but the idea exhilarating; cycle 70km from Honshu to Shikoku across an archipelago joined by some amazing suspension bridges. I had to do this.
I began my journey early morning, leaving Hiroshima to arrive in Onomichi for 10am, exiting the station to the right and along the big concrete car-park along the waterfront I found a bike rental shop; although another rental shop lies across the water on the other side of the ferry crossing with, perhaps, a better choice of bikes.
Reaching the first island by ferry is the only way to get across without a car but making it to the other side I soon found the famous bright blue line that would lead me safely though all the islands and bridges to my final destination 70km away in Imabari on Shikoku.
Despite the weather being overcast it was a beautiful ride. There where threats of rain but I stayed dry throughout most of the cycle and enjoyed the cool weather and early Autumn breeze against my sweaty skin.
Each island I crossed was different; some tropical, some hilly but all of them were good fun. I soon realised that I had time to explore off the blue line that was guiding me. Taking several detours into rural back roads often took me to local villages, small streets, fruit orchards and other interesting sights but a lot did lead me into the middle of nowhere or get me turned around a few times.
After about 35km I had reached my guesthouse after a days ride; nice and easy to find along the main cycle route but I’m glad I arrived before sunset - just enough time to take a dunk in the Onsen (traditional Japanese hot bath) before heading to the beach for sunset views across the water. Ahh! Perfectly relaxed in time for dinner and then bed - sleeping on the ground on tatami mats.
Day two was a shorter but more exhausting ride. My trusty steed had let me down and was starting to ache. I was so tired by the time I reached Imabari - and wet from the rain - I just ate some udon noodles and took a scenic train ride back to Hiroshima the long way around.
You can see all my photos from the ride here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/14859193@N07/sets/72157636715454853/