Whilst I was in Japan I booked to go on another GAdventures tour. This time with Blanca and David, and in Australia. The goal was to cross 2325km of Australian Outback to reach the Red Centre and Alice Springs. To put those distances into perspective that’s like driving from New York to Los Angeles or from London to Azerbaijan… a bloody long way.
Clare Valley Wine Tasting, a drive through the Flinders Ranges and a night in a swag
Leaving the urban area of Adelaide we take a morning cruise north into the Clare Valley. We pull over in a lay-by and set up a breakfast of cereal and fruit under the canopy of trees at the edge of a town too small to show up on a map and too insignificant to remember it’s name.
We carry on our drive as the morning sun continues to rise and we make it to a vineyard in the Clare Valley for some mid-morning wine tasting - I don’t think anyone minded a bit of slosh that early in the day; it is holiday after all. The wine in this region provides most of the communal wine for the Catholic Church in Australia.
After some Shiraz and Riesling, and an introduction to the vineyard cat, we leave the Clare Valley behind and continue north to a town called Quorn where we load up on supplies for the next week on the road. Meat, cheese, milk, bread, salad, fruit, snacks, beer, and ice all get loaded into our Eskie cooler boxes; this food needs to stay fresh for a week of driving through the mid-summer Australian wilderness.
As we drive further north the lush wine region makes way to golden corn fields and eventually untouched wilderness. We arrive in the evening at Wilpena Pound after a long drive through the windy, dirt-roads of the Flinders Ranges.
Wilpena Pound to Beltana Station
Last night was spent sleeping outside under the stars in swags. A swag is a small, one-person canvas tent without poles; a bivvy or bivouac may be a more common term. The night was cold, especially without a sleeping bag or insulation to keep us warm - but we persevered as we knew how hot it would get as soon as the sun rose. Sure enough at 5am we were up and ready to head on a hike, by 8am it’s already past the 30 degree point and we’re getting sweaty.
We learn some aboriginal folk stories about a god that battled a snake, thus creating the landscape, and enjoyed the serenity that came from the valley area around Wilpena Pound.
William Creek along the Oodnadatta Track and a Visit to a Desert Philosopher
A long drive today along the Oodnadatta Track and not much to look at but hours of endless outback. Occasionally we’d sight a wild kangaroo or emu in the distance - once or twice they were right up close or darting dangerously in front of the truck.
We make a stop in a town called Maree to fill up the truck with fuel. It feels like a ghost town so far from anywhere.
Along the drive we pull off and make our way to an open-air art gallery and meet a desert philosopher called Talc Alf. A large, elderly guy with a beard who explained to us, his version, of the origins of man, language, the world and Australia.
The first letters of the alphabet are A for Adam and B for Boobs (women) makes C for Child… And aboriginals are the Original Adams and Boobs (women). ABOriginal.
Clearly a few too many hours in the sun huffing on talcum powder.
There are many videos of this guy on YouTube explaining the word Australia, here’s a more recent one. N.B. That’s a boomerang and a real kangaroo foot he’s holding in the photo.
A few hours later, and with the feeling the day couldn’t get stranger, we arrive in William Creek. Population 2. In the middle of nowhere. Maree suddenly feels like the 'big city’. An aeroplane is landing in the middle of the road.
Looks like we won’t be alone tonight, at least we’ll be joined by the company of the entire town. Some of us opt for a scenic flight over Lake Eyre, whilst the others tend to day-to-day outback life such as putting out wild bush-fires and repairing broken windows caused by airborne stones flicking up from the dirt roads. Never a quiet moment in the quiet outback.
After the drama of the day is over and all fires extinguished we enjoy a buffet dinner provided by the rest house family. We call ‘liar’ on their population of two as we’ve clearly seen three people working the rest-stop.
Ah yea, mate, we’ve forgot to update the sign. There’s four of us now.
Clearly a city on the rise.
The night here in William Creek also feels like the perfect time to enjoy some Aussie pop-culture and watch Priscilla Queen of the Desert.
Lake Eyre to Coober Pedy and the Opal Mines of Australia
More driving, more nothingness, more time to contemplate the vastness of Australia and how much of it is untouched. A trip to Lake Eyre, provides us with a panoramic metaphor for the Australian outback.
Endless, unimaginable, nothing…
After a few more hours of driving we make it to Coober Pedy, a town at last.
Coober Pedy is opal capital of Australia. It’s a mining town. It’s also so hot in the summer that most people live underground. In caves. These caves are reminiscent of the Flintstones home, jagged rock walls lining the living room with a TV set in the corner and dishwasher in the kitchen.
Uluru Marla Walk Around the Base of Uluru
Next stop Uluru. More early morning starts whilst we are at Yalarra and Uluru (Ayers Rock). The day-time temperatures are hitting over forty and so we have to start our days before the sun comes up. That means we need to be doing our Uluru base walk at 6:30 in the morning so we can then escape to the shade of the cultural centre for midday.
Getting up close and personal with such an icon is incredible, there are so many minute details hidden away that you really come to appreciate that it’s more than just a big rock in the middle of nowhere.
Sunset at Uluru in the summer is majestic and breathtaking. You can just about make out some people slanding in the foreground (for some perspective on size). In the distance is Kata Tjuta, where we will be going the following day. The tree, just left of centre, is the most photographed tree in the whole of Australia.
The next day we’re up for the sunrise. Still beautiful, but still too early. It’s all about scenic cereal and tired toothbrushing.
Kings Creek, Kings Canyon (Valley of the Winds) & Kata Tjuta (The Olgas Rock Formation)
Our last day around Uluru and we visit Kings Creek & Kings Canyon. A rock formation cut out by a river with valleys, waterfalls and lush gardens nicknamed The Garden of Eden.
A long hike around gives us an appreciation for it’s beauty. We then jump aboard a helicopter for a scenic flight over both King’s Canyon and Uluru.
Uluru is a magnificent, monstrous, monolith.
Alice Springs
Back on the road and on to Alice and our flights home. Thanks Damo and GAdventures, you were rad!
Until next time folks. Check out my Outback Gallery on Flickr.
